In 2019, according to a study published by vacation home rental service VRBO, the top dream destination of Americans was Australia. A lot has changed since then, yet it’s true that — presumably because it’s on the diametrically opposite side of the planet, the antipode of the United States — the prospect of a trip to the Land Down Under is as alluring as ever.
If you were planning a trip for the first time, you’d be forgiven for wanting to exclusively see the sights — the Great Barrier Reef, Bondi Beach, the Sydney Opera House, chief among them — and cities like Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane. But I’m here to tell you, if you’ve committed to getting to Australia in the first place, you’d be doing yourself a disservice by not visiting the Northern Territory.
Colloquially known as the “Top End,” the NT is arguably best known, from a tourist standpoint, for Uluru — an iconic sandstone monolith in the Red Centre. But, home of the real Outback, it’s much more than the sum of its parts. Bursting with wildlife, ancient Aboriginal culture, dramatic landscapes and an unexpected food scene (Sri Lankan, anyone?), it’s the most authentic encapsulation of Australia’s seductiveness to Americans.
Typically, May through December encompasses tourist season in the NT, as it’s winter and, crucially, dry season. That said, the tropical season — April through November — has its own set of draws, particularly for wildlife enthusiasts and storm chasers. As it pertains to the latter, Darwin, the NT’s capital city, was once thought to be the lightning capital of the world (Weatherzone estimates that it experiences 54 lightning pulses per square kilometer in a year, making it the most lightning-prone capital city in Australia). In other words: it puts on a show worth traveling for.
But whatever your motives are for visiting, the best advice I can give is this: don’t wait. Below, a guide to one jam-packed week in the NT.
Day 1:
Stay: Mindil Beach Casino Resort
Overlooking Fannie Bay, Mindil Beach Casino Resort is Darwin’s only five-star beachfront resort and four-star hotel. It has a private white sand beach, three restaurants, five bars and a Lagoon-style pool, yet I would argue that none of those things trump its proximity to Darwin International Airport. After nearly 30 hours of travel, I’ve never been so excited to check into a hotel. I’d imagine that, regardless of where you’re flying from in the United States, this will also be true for you. Do yourself a solid and book a room at Mindil Beach, and then don’t make any other plans.
Do: If you must, grab a coffee from Roma Bar (you’ll need it) and take a nice, slow, self-guided street art tour of Darwin. Since its inception in 2017, the Darwin Street Art Festival (DSAF) has taken place every year in August/September over the course of three weeks. And while it would be awesome to experience the festival in real time, thanks to the DSAF app, you can still enjoy the fruit it bears (and at your own pace). In addition to maps, photos and info about the artists, the app has a feature that, when you point your camera at a mural, brings it to life.
Day 2:
Stay: Finniss River Lodge
Set on a 50,000-acre, working cattle station, Finniss River Lodge is a six-room, family owned (and fairly new) operation. It’s about an hour and a half drive from Darwin City (the lodge also offers vehicle transfer for up to 15 people), though it can also be reached via helicopter and charter plane (there’s an air strip onsite).
The accommodations are luxe, minimalist and few (intimate and personalized experiences reign supreme here), but I’d argue that the appeal of Finniss River is truly in what lies outside your door. There are six ecosystems on the property, including a beach about a 20 minute’s drive from the lodge, which lend it to a wide range of experiences. There’s Crocs in the Wild (complimentary with a four-night stay), Cows & Canapes, scenic helicopter tours and all manner of excursions with on-staff survivalist and adventure man Andrew Ucles, who, in addition to having a Netflix series called Born to be Wild, keeps a permanent camp on the grounds.
But what makes Finniss River a standout property is really the staff. As expected, they are a small-but-mighty team of characters. I learned and laughed more in less than 24 hours than I’d factored into my original itinerary and, had I known that would be the case, I likely would have extended my stay. The lodge closes in mid-December but will reopen on February 1 for storm season for the first time this year. Plan accordingly.
Do: The airboat tour. It’s complimentary with a three-night stay, though it’s worth every dime. Finniss River Lodge sits alongside vast coastal floodplains that, for a number of reasons — crocs chief among them — can only be navigated by airboat. It offers stunning access to otherwise inaccessible billabongs, lagoons and mangroves harboring countless bird species, crocs and wallabies. You may even get some face time with the lagoon’s resident crocs, Forrest and Otis.
Eat: Finniss River Lodge
Finniss River’s remoteness means that dining options are minimal (read: nonexistent). It’s a nonissue because the food and beverage program at Finniss River Lodge is exquisite. Utilizing all local, seasonal produce (a lot of it actually comes off the property), Head Chef Lachlan Raineri’s menu takes a real “no rules” approach. That means there’s no set menu, and usually there isn’t even a plan. Yet somehow, they’re able to flawlessly execute breakfast, lunch and a three-course dinner using all homemade ingredients (I’m talking butter, ice cream, bread, honeycomb) in a way that you’d expect from a fine dining establishment in any major city.
As is the Finniss River way, all meal times are flexible. They have dietary restrictions in advance and can always accommodate on a dime. At my first meal, Raineri asked two questions: “How adventurous are you?” and “How do you feel about green ants?” The subsequent barramundi dish, featuring green ants, was spectacular. He later told me that, had I answered differently, he would have happily made me a cheese sandwich. After dinner, we sat around the fire and roasted homemade marshmallows.
Visiting Carnarvon Gorge: Australia’s Great Prehistoric Hiking Destination
With ancient art, prehistoric plants and hidden canyons, Carnarvon Gorge offers hikers an unforgettable Garden of Eden experience.Day 3:
Stay: Bullo River Station
Another working cattle station set on 402,000 total acres, Bullo River Station is even more remote than Finniss River. It’s accessible by car, but I’d recommend chartering a flight. Bullo River also has its own airstrip, so you land right on the property. (Side note: this probably feels like a crazy bit of advice for the average traveler, but it is how every guest I met at both of the lodges had gotten there. I used Air Frontier for my trip and it cost around $3,000 AUD for two passengers to fly from lodge to lodge. Chart Air is also an option.)
Set in the Bullo River Valley, Bullo River Station’s original homestead was built in the early 1960s. Of course, a lot has changed since then, including ownership, but much of the original homestead remains, including its original oceanic rock floor. The guest rooms are decorated in shades of the valley and with objects collected from around the property, and each one opens out onto the lawn. It’s teeming with life, but the guest quarters — pool included — are a luxe oasis of calm in the (metaphorical) desert. This is another property where you could easily spend a week and still not be ready to leave come check out. I’d even go so far as to say it was one of my favorite stays of all time.
Eat: Bullo River Station
Similar to Finniss River, dining is confined to the station — though with Chef David Rayner (previously of Noosaville restaurant Thomas Corner Eatery) at the helm, this winds up being a pretty good deal for guests. A lot of the produce is grown right on the property, which means strikingly fresh, seasonal cuisine. Haven’t gotten your fill of barramundi yet? You’re in the right place. Bullo River is all-inclusive, so all food and drinks are included and meals are served communal-style, al fresco. Dietary restrictions are collected at time of booking.
Do: Helicopter Tour to Bullo Sands
Also included in your stay at Bullo River Station is six minutes of helicopter time per adult guest. These minutes can be combined with your friends and family for a short scenic flight or used towards a helicopter experience, which otherwise costs $1,550 AUD per hour. I’d personally recommend the flight to Bullo Sands — a totally secluded waterfall and swimming spot nestled among the gorges that’s only accessible by helicopter. Go for a dip, then enjoy the sunset with a glass of complimentary wine.
Day 4:
Do: Tour Indigenous Rock art, Marlee’s Bath & Swim and/or Cruise the Bullo
Bullo River Station is definitely a choose-your-own-adventure type of stay. To start, check out some of the property’s Aboriginal rock art. A number of rock art sites have been discovered at Bullo, yet — out of respect for the Gajirrabeng people who once lived on the land — not all of it is available for public viewing. More of it still is only accessible by all-terrain vehicle or helicopter. That said, there is a gallery that can be reached via a short 5-10 minute hike. While it’s hard to know exactly how old it is, it really gives you a sense of place and a deeper appreciation for the land.
From there, go for a relaxing cruise on the Bullo River. The lodge’s namesake river can only really be experienced by boat, and a ride on the station’s electric motor boat allows you to do just that. Surrounded by red cliffs, the gorge is lined with mangroves, fig trees and pandanus. You’re also likely to see some rock wallabies, skinks and freshies in addition to countless birds and maybe even Bullo River’s resident croc.
Later, go for a dip at Marlee’s Bath. Named after the previous owner, Marlee Ranacher, Marlee’s bath is a croc-free water hole and the perfect place to cool off after a long day of hiking and boating. While you enjoy a swim, your guide will prepare you lunch cooked over a cast iron campfire.
Eat: Jenson’s Boab at Bullo River Station
I’d be remiss not to recommend a private dinner at Jenson’s Boab. Just a short drive from the homestead, you’ll enjoy sunset drinks next to the Victoria River before tucking into a campfire dinner prepared by Chef Rayner.
Day 5:
From Bullo River Station, head to Jabiru, home to Kakadu National Park. I flew via Air Frontier to Jabiru Airstrip where I was picked up by a guide from Autopia, which, for this stretch of the trip, I cannot recommend enough. Autopia offers a variety of tours but, as Kakadu has been home to Aboriginal people for more than 50,000 years, it feels especially pertinent to have a guide with a deep understanding of the cultural landscape here. I spent the better part of the week with my Autopia guide, Tim, and my experience was richer for it.
Stay: Cooinda Lodge
Described as a “village-style” property, Cooinda Lodge is set just beside Yellow Water Billabong. Owned by the local indigenous community with a range of lodging options and food and beverage concepts, it feels like a massive campground of sorts. I stayed in one of the newly-refurbished Lodge Rooms, which had, among other things, air-conditioning, a kitchenette, an ensuite bathroom with walk-in shower and a large deck overlooking the bush with an outdoor bathtub — all of which felt essential following a full day in Kakadu.
Eat: As previously mentioned, Cooinda has several food and beverage options. Mimi’s Restaurant focuses on locally foraged and sourced foods and Indigenous flavors. Here you can enjoy things like wild caught barramundi or a kangaroo burger. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Cooinda Tasting Plate, which includes kangaroo filet, rum jungle buffalo filet, salt and pepper crocodile and barra in paperbark. If you’re not, try the Moreton Bay Bug Linguini. Dine al fresco and enjoy live music.
Do: Jim Jim Creek and Falls Walk in Kakadu National Park
Jim Jim Falls is a 200m high waterfall which, during the tropical season, can only be seen from the air. During the dry season, however, you can drive in (you’ll need four-wheel drive) and hike the rest of the way to the falls (albeit reduced to more of a trickle). From the trail head, it’s about a mile to the base of the falls and, while I’d consider it a pretty easy hike, it does involve some rock scrambling. If you’re feeling extra ambitious, you can also climb to the top of the falls.
For my part, I hiked to the plunge pool where I was seemingly, and unbeknownst to me, transported to Jurassic Park. Think sandy beaches surrounded by towering red ochre escarpments and not another soul in sight. There are only small, fresh water crocs here, so it’s safe to swim — pack a swimsuit.
For something more leisurely, visit Nourlangie to see the rock art instead.
Day 6:
Do: Before you depart Kakadu, make time for the Guluyambi Cultural Cruise on the East Alligator River. It’s a relaxing two hour cruise on a landlocked billabong surrounded by monsoon rainforest. It’s a great opportunity to relax and learn a little bit about the area and, crucially, the people who inhabit it right from the source. Plus, the billabong is such a plentiful food source for wildlife, there is little competition between crocs. In other words, you’ll get to see an incredible concentration of them here.
Then it’s time to head back to Darwin.
Stay: Adina Apartments Darwin Waterfront
After the better part of a week spent off the grid, start to ease back into society by way of the Adina Apartments Darwin Waterfront. As its name would imply, it’s situated on the water and features spacious apartment-style rooms, complete with balconies and laundry facilities — imperative after the time you’ve just spent traipsing through the outback. It’s also located just a 15 minute drive from Darwin International Airport.
Eat: Mindil Beach Sunset Markets
Set alongside Darwin Harbor, the Mindil Beach Sunset Market is incredibly special. With more than 200 stalls — more than 60 of which are food stalls, both local and international, in addition to an array of arts, crafts and services stalls — it’s the true definition of “melting pot.” At the admonition of my travel companion, I waited until the market to try laksa, an immensely popular dish in Darwin given its proximity to Southeast Asia and subsequent influence, and I can confirm it was the correct move.
The market runs from the end of April to October, every Thursday and Sunday from 4-9 p.m. I’d recommend going all in on the Sunset Drinks VIP Package, which includes two complimentary glasses of sparkling white or red wine, $20 worth of Mindil money and access to the VIP section. Once you’ve secured your wine, head down to the beach for sunset — it’ll be one of the most spectacular sights you’ve ever seen, I guarantee it.
Day 7:
Eat: Ella by Minoli
Tucked away in a quiet pocket of Darwin City, Ella by Minoli is, between the food and the design, a direct line to Ella — a hidden jungle town in Sri Lanka. Rife with modern Sri Lankan flavors and a singular cocktail program to match, it’s an essential dining experience in Darwin. Small plates are the name of the game here, so plan to order a lot and share, though you may want to order two of the Kiwifruit to be safe. It’s delightful.
Do: Go on a heli pub crawl with Airborne Solutions. Yep, you read that right — a helicopter pub crawl. This tour takes you to some of the remotest outback pubs, including a stop at Goat Island, which is only reachable by air or water. (It’s owned by “King” Kai Hansen — you might recognize him from this viral video — who’s lived alone on the island for 20 years with his “pet” croc, Casey.) It was unequivocally one of the best things I did in Darwin, in addition to being a great way to see the territory from above. The tour costs $1550 AUD per person, involves approximately two hours of flight time and can accommodate groups of up to 20 people (across several helicopters, of course).
Alternatively, if a pub crawl doesn’t appeal to you, Airborne Solutions offers heli fishing, which presents anglers with all levels of experience the opportunity to fish for the coveted barramundi in equally remote locales.
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